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Comme Des Garçons RTW Fall 2013 overview

img166I can’t even explain my relationship with Comme des Garçons. All I know is that I’m always satisfied with what I see. Somehow, I always feel this paradox of “it’s new, it’s different, but it’s expected and you get it” vibe from Comme des Garçons. If you didn’t get that don’t feel bad, I kind of don’t either. This collection, “The Infinity of Tailoring” blew me away. At first I saw the photos without checking who a designer was, and the choices in fabric felt very Yohji Yamamoto to me, but then as it progressed, I saw this quiet determination to broaden our perception of tailoring, this rebelion is always traced back to Kawakubo Sama. Traditionally, tailoring is something that is very precise and obvious, we know what we want when we want something tailored. Kawakubo sama used those techniques to add possibilities to tailoring . Fabrics were all layered the wrong ways, men’s fabrics draped and blown up, and patterns, as if not bright and out there enough, were twisted and warped into 3D flower bouquets in random places.  To me, this is just unouchable. CDG stomps out anything.ImageoImageImageImage

Photos : Style.com

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Back to black.

I’ve been out of the loop for, gosh give or take a year… so weird. Anyway I’ll be updating this blog a lot more often. 

 

xM

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FASHION FOR MEN ISSUE No. 1 REVIEW


I’ve been meaning to write a review on this magazine for a while. I’ve had it for some time but never sat down and looked at it in depth. If I’m going to tackle this innormous magazine I’m going to do it in one go. I got this magazine from http://www.colette.fr/ and the shipping was really fast. 2 days! That’s fast. Here’s an interview I found,  it was originally from Models.com but I found it on thefashionspot.com

Milan’s New Frontier

With his diverse and fashion forward track record, news of the launch of a new Milan Vukmirovic venture creates instant excitement for a dedicated fashion follower. Tune in as Mr V gives us a quick update on his latest print venture, Fashion For Men.

MDC: How would you describe the aesthetic of Fashion For Men?

Milan: Very elegant, simple, modern and masculine.

MDC: Who are some of the artists and contributors to this first issue?

MV: Riccardo Tisci is the guest of honor, Tommy Ton is a major contributor, Anna Dello Russo has a big fashion story inside as a model. She is the only woman in the magazine. The magazine has also 12 fashion stories presenting some of the best new models, like Greg Nawrat, Travis Cannata, Tomas Bukovatz, Ian Mellencamp, Chris Moore, Eric Puzio and more….

MDC: What led to the bold choice of your first cover. What is the message behind this idea?

MV: The rottweiler was the theme of Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy this winter. It’s strong and aggressive. I wanted the cover to be strong too. Fashion For Men issue n°1 is about 620 pages of the best of the best fashion for this winter season and next spring. Half of the magazine is already a preview of next season.

MDC: How frequently will Fashion For Men be published?

MV: Twice a year

MDC: Finally what would you say sets it apart from other men’s titles on the market?

MV: No magazines gives so much space to men’s fashion and accessories. It’s a real “Best Of”. The paper is ultra luxurious. The magazine has a hard cover and is closer to a book than an actual magazine.

It’s a fashion diary of the last six months. I also wanted people to discover interesting men, not necessarily famous people, through long interviews and beautiful portraits.

Read more: Fashion For Men Issue n.1 – the Fashion Spot http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f78/fashion-men-issue-n-1-a-159623.html#ixzz1kPh3soSf

The magazine is pretty fucking big. Actually it’s gigantic. This is one of the reasons why I wanted to buy it. The presentation makes the magazine look like one of those really niche must-haves. And honestly it sort of is. Also, a lot of people on the internet bitch about the cover being boring and how much of a bad idea it was to use the Rottweiler graphic because it’s been everywhere lately. Well the magazine is dedicated to Ricardo Tisci and the Rottweiler collection did really well amongst men. Had the Rottweiler not been on the cover, I’m not sure I would have bought this, so myth busted! The Rottweiler is repetitive for a reason, and I think it’s totally justified.

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The first thing I noticed when I opened the magazine was this terrible crunching of the binding. Luckily it didn’t do too much damage, and if handled with care it won’t come apart. If this is going to be thrown around, it’s definitely going to come apart. The pages are impeccable. So glossy and clean, top quality. I think the quality alone is worth the price you pay to have this magazine.

This magazine is meant to be the men’s fashion bible, and I don’t know about this. It sort of is and it sort of isn’t. I do think that, for it to be a “fashion bible” the magazine would have to be a little less subjective. Milan Vukimirovic does state that the magazine is his fashion diary, it’s really what he feels needs to be brought into the spotlight. However, because it’s so big and there’s so much information in it, it can always be used as a source of reference, so I guess it sort of is. Fashion For Men also doesn’t just feature fashion. It also features music and art, and other really cool shit. It’s really interesting how this magazine does bring into light a lot of things going on, which is what it says it’s going to do O_O. I’ve been writing this as I look through the magazine and… I don’t know why I’m so hesitant to call this the men’s fashion bible. Maybe because it is the first issue, but, it’s looking really good right now as the fashion bible because it goes beyond fashion without forgetting fashion. Hope that makes sense.

The guest of honor opening bit was a bit boring, I found a lot of images to be on the boring side all throughout the magazine. The photos just seem to be really minimalistic you know? Like those classy studio shots with shadows, sometimes black and white, moody. This is just a personal thing though, I love to be bombarded with visuals in a photograph (I’m a Galliano fanboy obv). The interview however, was really incredible. I’m one of those people who would love to just sit down with these designers and be their friends. I constantly dream about this. No lie. The interview asks somewhat personal and casual question. It really made me feel as though I’ve just met Ricardo Tisci in a casual environment and really kicked it off. I crave this so bad. As a fashion outsider looking in (and hoping to someday be a creative within the industry myself), to feel like you’re talking to a creative force like Ricardo Ticsi makes me all happy giddy. To me the interview was amazing.

Maybe I overestimated my ability to tackle this in one go. Def. not possible, so let me wrap this review up.  Also keep in mind these are my opinions. A lot of things you will see in the pros you might think is a con and vice versa.
Some pros are that it’s huge in size, reasonably priced, a lot of variety, top quality, really different than anything being published, focuses on men’s fashion.

some cons are that it has a bit of boring photography, it’s minimal (lacks drama), and one thing for me (and I hope men’s fashion steers away from this) is the amount of shirtless photographs. I’m not offended by nudity but I do think that if it’s a men’s fashion magazine it should focus on men’s clothes. I think this is not just a mini-rant for the magazine, but to everything. Stop showing off skin for the sake of showing off skin and focus on the clothes. I know what a naked man looks like, I don’t see how it’s supposed to make any sense by having men naked in every editorial and in every ad. Not that this magazine does this, but it does happen quite a lot. It’s like when Abercrombie and Fitch and Hollister all have huge posters of bare chested men when they are supposed to be selling clothes? SHOW ME THE CLOTHES!!! >____<. Sorry for that, it’s just one of my pet peeves.

That’s it for this review. Thanks for reading.

xM

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Some new stuff I’ve been working on.

I have been working on a fashion show since december and I have to put together a collection for a fashion show. The cool thing is that this fashion show is completely independent. So I want to gove you a sneek peak into what I’ve done. This is just the start and there’s a lot more that I’ve done but this is the only thing I managed to take photos of. Pity, it’s not the best of what I’ve done. But I’ll share the whole thing once I’m done. For example the under shirt doesn’t fit the way I want to, and doesn’t have the effect I want it to have so it’s going to be redone, and the pants have been dyed a maroon color. Also the second photo is just the shirt, not anything else.

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall 2012

If I were to sit here and explain how much I love Rei Kawakubo… I couldn’t that’s just impossible.  I really almost never not like comme des garçons, the only time I don’t like it is… i actually don’t know. Oh yeah I do it’s when I go look into it to buy it and it’s waaay out of my budget. In this collection comme des garçons puts foward somber punk school boy look. Using a black pallette, wool blazers, skirts, and 80’s glam rock jet-black mullets, hats that I don’t know the name of, large neck bowties (not that awkward geek chic bowtie), patchwork, and a rose print.  Here are some of my favorite looks :

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(Pictures from http://www.wwd.com)

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Givenchy Pre-Fall 12

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Ricardo Tisci, honestly, you’re always hit or miss with me. This was such a hit I am willing to pay a lot of money I currently don’t have to have the shark inspired top. If there is anyone who is making fashion more daring and also more tangible for men it’s him. For a while now I’ve noticed that more and more men are trying to branch out and really change up their wardrobes without wanting to look girly or whatever, but some of the recent trends have been really bad. For example, the wacky tacky bowtie trend, or the ultra tight skinny jeans, or even the pants hanging below your ass look. With Kanye being a style icon, as well as a huge Tisci supporter, hopefully men’s style will go in this direction, everyone I seem to talk to loves Kanye West’s style, and I like it too. There’s nothing here risking or borderlining girly here, even the skirts! Perfection.

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Yohji Yamamoto’s “This Is My Dream”

I have these fantasies in my head where I sit down and chat with designers like they’re my friends. Like we’re almost equal. And we get along, and we’re friends. Lately, I’ve been really wanting to talk to Yohji Yamamoto more than any other designer, which is why I need to watch his new Film “This Is My Dream”

I’ve also purchased the Yohji Yamamoto “My Dear Bomb” book so I’ll be talking about that later on.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO – RULES OF STYLE

1. I believe that there are three conditions to a woman’s beauty. First, you must realize that not all women are beautiful all of the time. Sometimes beauty comes on a subconscious level. When she is in love, or has met someone new and exciting, she shines. Second, you must understand that life is unfair. Beauty is something that, for some, must be worked at. The third condition is luck. Some women can just be lucky.

2. My role in all of this is very simple. I make clothing like armor. My clothing protects you from unwelcome eyes.

3. Color, for me, has too many stories wrapped around it. I like black, white, gray, and navy. Like a uniform.

4. Life is better for beautiful people. You can become lucky if you are beautiful, you can become rich. But there is no truth in this definition of beauty.

5. If you feel strongly about someone, go up to them. Pursue what you want in life. Why be shy about something like that?

6. You can tell what a woman is going to be like in bed just by looking at her. There is a feeling about someone that comes from experience. When you’ve seen it once, you will recognize it again.

7. Fashion cannot make you sexy. Experience makes you sexy. Imagination makes people sexy. You have to train yourself, you have to study, and you have to live your life.

8. I love the back. A beautiful back makes a beautiful front. When you slouch, think about what happens to your front. You have to keep your back in the right position. This is where your spirit lies.

9. Men’s clothing is about tiny details, and I hate that. I am very small and I look stupid in a perfectly tailored suit. I want to be able to wear things that don’t fit perfectly, with the sleeves far too long. I wish clothing came with no sizes at all. It would be much better that way.

10. The biggest mistake you can make in fashion is imitation. If we keep on like this, fashion will die. There was a time when I used to fall in love on the street every day. I would see someone with such a way about them or such a flawless item that I would have to say, “Stop! Please! That’s perfect.” That never happens anymore. Everything is too similar. Soon it will be only a T-shirt and jeans.

11. I don’t think we should try to make space our own. I believe that as modern people we should live in mobility. We should always be moving.

(SOURCE)

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